3000字服装设计外文文献.docx
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3000字服装设计外文文献.docx
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3000字服装设计外文文献
3000字服装设计外文文献
篇一:
服装设计外文文献翻译
文献出处:
SukumarN,GnanavelP,AnanthakrishnanT.EffectofSeamsonDrapeofFabrics[J].AfricanResearchReview,20xx,3(3):
62-72.
原文
EffectofSeamsonDrapeofFabrics
Sukumar;Gnanavel.P.,Ananthakrishnan,T.
Abstract
Drapeofthefabricisitsabilitytohangfreelyingracefulfoldswhensomeareaofitissupportedoverasurfaceandtherestisunsupported.Drapeisauniquepropertythatallowsafabrictobebentinmorethaninonedirection,Whentwo-dimensionalfabricareconvertedtothree-dimensionalgarmentform.Inthepresentstudy,theeffectsofsewingofdifferentseamwereselectedondifferentfabricandtheirbehaviorswerestudied.Inthisstudydrapeoftenfabricsareanalyzedwiththreetypesofseamsandthreestitchdensities.Samplewithoutseamisacontrolsampleanddrapeofseamedsamplesarecomparedwithcontrolsampletoanalyzethedrapebehaviorofseamedfabrics.Thispaperpresentsafundamentaldrapeanalysisofseamedfabricsusingdrapemeter.Drapebehaviorisdeterminedintermsofdrapecoefficient.TheeffectofseamsonthedrapecoefficientandDrapeprofilehasbeenmade.Drapecoefficientssignificantlydiffersbetweenthefabricsandalsobetweentheseamstitchdensitycombinations.Investigatingdrapeonseamedfabricscanimprovefabricenduseapplication.
Keywords:
drape,computeraideddesign,seam,stitchdensity
Introduction
Drapeisanimportantpropertythatdecidesthegracefulnessofanygarmentasitisrelatestoaestheticsofgarments(KaushalRajsharmaandB.K.Behera.20xx).Themechanicalpropertiesoffabricswerefirststudiedduringthelate19thcenturybyGermanresearchersworkingondevelopingairships(Postle,1998).Drapeabilityhasbeenregardedasaquantitativecharacteristicofcloth,andseveraldevicesaswellasvirtualsystemshavebeendevelopedtomeasureit(Booth,1968;Jeong,1998;StyliosandWan,1999).InstrumentsformeasuringdrapeabilityhavebeendevelopedbyChuetal.(1950)andlaterbyCusick(1965,1968)usingaparallellightsourcethatreflectsthedrapeshadowofacircularspecimenfromhangingdiscintoapieceofringpaperatpresentnumerousinstruments,rangingfromasimplecantileverbendingtestertoadynamicdrapetesterdevelopedformeasuringfabricdrape.Duringrecentyears,theinvestigationoffabricdrapehasattractedtheattentionofmanyresearchersbecauseoftheattemptstorealizetheclothingComputeraideddesign(CAD)systembyintroducingthefabricproperties,inwhichfabricdrapeisthekeyelement.Itisobviousthatfabricshavetobesewntogetherforagarmenttobeformed.Theseamsofagarmentaffectthefabricdrapegreatly(Matsudaira,M.andYang,M.2000).Itisuealistictorealizetheappearanceofagarmentsystemwithouttheconsiderationofseamsandthemethodsofassemblingoffabricsintogarments(JinlianHuetal,1997).
Whenafabricisdraped;itcanbendinoneormoredirections.Curtainsanddrapesusuallybendinonedirection,whereasgarmentsandupholsteryexhibita
complexthree-dimensionalformwithdoublecurvature.Hence,fabricdrapeisacomplexmathematicalprobleminvolvinglargedeformationsunderlowstresses(Postle,1993).
Aplainseamthemosttypicalseamfoundextensivelyinapparelisthesimplesttypeinwhichasinglerowoflockstitchesjoinstwopiecesoffabricstogether.Thus,investigatingtheeffectofaplainseamonfabricdrapehasasignificantvalueforboththetextileandclothingindustries.Thequantifieddrapeabilityofafabricintoadimensionlessvaluecalleda“Drapecoefficient”,whichisdefinedasthepercentoftheareafromanangularringoffabriccoveredbyaverticalprojectionofthedrapedfabric(BrandR.H.1964).“Drapecoefficient(DC)”themainparameterusedtoquantifyfabricdrape(NarahariKenkareandTraciMay-Plumlee.20xx).Thoughuseful,itisinsufficienttocharacterizecomplexformssuchasgarments.StyliosandZhu,1997consideredthatthedrapecoefficientbyitselfdidnotcapturethefullaestheticqualityofthedrapeofafabric.
Drapeprofileoffabricswithseamsprovideguidanceforgarmentdesignsandproducersintheapparelindustryandimprovetheunderstandingofdrapepropertiescorrespondingtodifferentseamfeatures(Fourt.LandHollies.N.R.S.1970).Furthermore,weexpectthattheresultswillbeusefulinpredictinggarmentdrapewithclothingCADsystems.
Differenttypesofseamsareusedingarmentmakingandalsowidestitchdensitiesareemployed.Oncethefabricisjoinedwithseamspossiblyitsdrapeconfigurationwouldvary.
Theproductrangeoftextileindustryhasextendedtothegarments.Massproductionofoperationalsystemsandautomatedsewingismakingmoreandmorepresence,itisveryessentialtounderstandtothechangeinpropertiesthefabricundergoesonce
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