纺织服装外文翻译文献Word格式.docx

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　Ｍeaｓｕremｅnt　Scieｎce　＆Ｔecｈnｏｌogy,　2０07,１8（7）:

2０33.

英文原文

Coｍparisｏnoｆ　ｄｉｆferentteｓt　meｔhods　ｆor　theｍeａsｕreｍｅｎtof　fabrｉc　orgａrmeｎｔmｏiｓturｅｔransｆerｐｒoperｔｉｅs

ＦKar,JFan　ａｎdWYu

Aｂsｔｒact

Seveｒaｌ　testmethoｄs　eｘiｓｔｆｏrdetermｉnｉnｇthewateｒ　vａｐｏｕr　perｍeability　oｒresistａnceoftexｔilｅfabriｃｓ　orｇarｍentｓ．Tｈeｄｉfｆｅrencｅsanｄ　ｉnterrelａtｉonshｉpｓbetweｅn　thesｅ　methoｄsａrenｏtalwaysclear,ｗhiｃhpｒesentsaproblemincomｐarｉｎgreｓulｔｓfromdiｆfereｎttesｔmeｔhoｄs．Tｈisstｕdｙisａimeｄ　atiｎvestigatingtherelaｔｉonshipsbｅtｗeentｈeｔｅｓｔ　resultsｆromfourtypical　teｓtmeｔhoｄs，ｉncludingtｈeｍoisｔｕrｅ　ｔransmissｉon　test（Mｏｄel　CS—１41）,ASＴM　E９6ｃupmeｔhｏｄ,sweatinggｕａrded　hot　pｌａtemｅtｈod（ISO1１092）　ａｎdtｈesweａtingｆabriｃｍanikin　（Ｗaｌｔｅｒ）.Ｆｏｒtheｒａngeofａｉrpermeａbｌe　knitteｄfabｒicsｔesteｄ,iｔwasfouｎdｔhaｔｇｏoｄ　inｔｅｒrｅlationｓhiｐsｅxistbｅtwｅeｎ　ｔhｅｒeｓultsfromthefｏｕｒtypｅsｏftｅsｔmeｔhods，aｌthｏｕghsｏmｅdiscrepａnciｅs　exｉstbetweeｎ　differｅnttestsdue　todifferenｃesiｎｔestiｎgcoｎditｉonｓ.Teｓtrｅsultsfrom　ｄｉfferentmｏistｕｒetransferｔestmetｈodｓcａnthereforｅｂe　ｃonvertｉblewithdueconsideratiｏｎ.

Keyｗorｄs：

fａｂric，water　vapｏurｔranｓmissｉonrａｔe,ｃlotｈｉnｇcomｆorｔ，ｗaｔｅr　ｖapouｒ　resistａncｅ

1.Intrｏduｃtion

Ｍｏisturetraｎｓｆｅｒpropertieｓof　textilｅfabrics　andgarmentｓareimｐortanｔtoｔhe　theｒmaｌcomｆｏrｔｏf　cｌoｔｈｅdperｓoｎｓ．Ａnuｍｂｅroftestmｅｔｈodshaｖe　bｅｅn　devｅlopｅdtｏ　evalｕａtetheｍoisｔuｒｅ　tｒansfeｒprｏpｅrｔｉｅsｏftexｔｉle　fabricｓ　ａndgarmeｎts.Howｅｖer,　sinceｔｈｅtechniquｅs　and　testingconditionsoｆ　thｅseteｓtsarｅveｒｙ　dｉfｆerent，resuｌts　ｆromtｈｅseｔests　are　notdirectlyｃomｐａrａｂle．Iｔistherefore　ｎecesｓary　to　inｖｅstiｇａtethedｉｆferences　ａｎdinterrelatiｏnｓhｉpｓbetweeｎtｈeｒesulｔsｆromthesｅdiffｅrenｔteｓｔmeｔｈｏds．

Dolhancoｍｐaredtwｏ　Ｃanadian　Standaｒdｓ（CAN2—4。

2—M77ａndCＡN/CGSB－４．2No．49—M91）anｄ　the　ＡSTMＥ96　ｔestmetｈodsforｍeasurｉｎgｔｈewatervapour　ｔrａnsｍiｓsｉonpropertiesanｄｆound　that　ｔhereｓultsofｔheｓeteｓtswere　nｏｔdｉrｅｃｔly　ｃompaｒablebeｃａusｅofｔhe　ｄiffｅrences　inｔhewatｅrvapourpreｓｓuregraｄｉentsdrivｉngｔｈe　moisｔurｅtrａnsmｉｓsionintｈediffeｒenｔ　test　mｅtｈoｄsGibｓon　[8］　ｃｏnｄｕctedaneｘtensiveinvｅｓｔｉgatiｏnoｎｔｈｅrｅlationsｈipoftｈeteｓtresuｌtsfromthe　ｓweating　guardｅdhｏｔpｌａte　（ISO1１092）　ａnｄ　thｏse　ｆromｔheASＴＭ　E9６Cup　Mｅtｈod.Iｎｈis　work，　ｐｅrmeａｂleｍaｔeriaｌs，　hｙdropｈｏｂicａｎdhｙｄropｈｉｌicmemｂranｅlａminateｓ　wｅrｅ　testeｄaｎdtheresultswereｓtandardｉzedinthe　uniｔsof　ａirresisｔａnceand　waｔervaｐourtrａnsｍｉssionrａte．Iｔ　waｓｆounｄ,　exceptｆｏrthｅｈydｒophiliｃ　ｓaｍpｌｅs，　thereｉsａ　clear　corｒｅlaｔｉonbeｔweenthｅ　ｒｅsｕltｓfromthetｗotests。

　Asthｅ　tesｔcｏndiｔioｎinthｅgｕａrdｅdｓweａtiｎｇhotpｌaｔeteｓtsｒesultｅdinmuch　higherｅｑuｉlibｒiumwater　coｎtentinｔhe　hｙdrｏphilicpｏlymｅｒ　ｌaｙｅr，which　ｉｎｆｌuｅnｃｅstｈepｏlymer'

sｐｅｒｍeabｉliｔy,ｔhｅｗaｔervapourtransｍissiｏn　raｔethroughthehｙdｒophilｉc　ｍemｂｒaneisgrｅａterwhentｅｓtｅd　usｉｎgtheswｅatiｎg　ｇuａrdedｈotplate。

Aspoｉntedoutbya　ｎuｍbｅr　of　prｅviｏuｓ　reseaｒcｈers　［7,12]，diｆferentrelatｉｖe　humiｄiｔｙｇradｉents　prｅsｅnｔinｔhevarｉｏｕsｔestｍethoｄscause　thｅiｎtrｉnsictranｓportchａraｃｔｅｒisticsｏfｈydｒｏｐｈiliｃ　poｌymｅｒstoｃhａnｇe。

Forsuchｆabｒicｓ，tｈeｒeｔeｎｄｔoｂepｏｏr　ｃorｒelatｉonsbetweeｎdｉfｆｅrｅｎttestｍethｏds　thatemploydiffeｒiｎgrelativｅhuｍidｉｔｙgradｉenｔｓ，ｓｉnｃethe　resiｓtanceiｓ　ａfunction　oftheｗａtervapour　concentraｔiｏnandｔｅｍpeｒaturｅ．Cｏｎseｑueｎtly，Lomaｘ[１1］　pｏinteｄouｔtheｎeedfor　invｅｓｔigaｔingthecorｒelaｔｉｏnsofｒeｓｕlｔs　ｆｒｏｍｄｉfferenｔtestｍethodｓｆordiｆfｅreｎttｙpes　oｆfａbrｉcｓ.

Greｔtｏn　etaｌ［9］ｃlasｓified　thefaｂrｉc　saｍplesintoｆｏurcａteｇｏｒｉes，ｉncludingairpeｒｍeabｌe　faｂriｃs，mｉcｒoｐoｒｏｕsｍｅｍbrａｎeｌamｉnatｅｄ　fabrics,　hydrophilicmembranelaminated/coatｅdｆabrｉcsand　hｙbrｉdcoａteｄ/laminaｔｅd　fａｂｒics，　iｎinvestigaｔingｔheｃoｒrelatiｏnbetwｅｅnthetestresults　of　theｓweatｉngguardeｄｈｏtplate　（IＳＯ11092）ａｎdthe　eｖaporaｔivｅｄisｈmethｏｄ（BS72０9）。

　Theyshowed　tｈatthereisa　goｏdcoｒrelａtioｎbetｗeenｔｈｅ　two　test　metｈodsｆoｒallfaｂricsexceｐtforthe　hydrophｉｌicｃoａtedａndｌaminａｔed　fabricsthａttｒaｎsmｉt　waｔeｒvapｏur　wｉthout　fｏllowｉｎｇtheFicｋｉａｎ　lａwofdｉffｕsion。

Recｅnｔlｙ,Ｉndｕshekaｒetal［１0］ｃompaｒｅｄ　ｔhe　ｗａtervａpｏurｔｒａnsmｉｓsｉonrａtｅs　ｍeasuredｂｙamoｄulateｄdiffｅreｎtial　scanningcalorimeterandthｏsｅby　theconventｉｏｎaldish　tｅｃhniqueasｓｐｅcifiｅdｉn　BS72０9　fｏr　awiｄeranｇｅoｆwｏｖeｎｂased　fabriｃsuｓedｉncoldwｅａｔｈerprotectiveclothiｎｇ.Theｓtudyｓhoｗedｔhａtresulｔｓfrom　ｔhｅsｅ　ｔｗo　testmethods　difｆerｗidｅly　dueto　tｈedifｆereｎcesiｎthe　ｗateｒ　vapour　gradientswhicｈocｃｕｒrediｎthe　twｏmeｔｈodｓ．

With　tｈedeｖelopｍentｏfｎｏveltechniques　fortｈemeasureｍentｏf　moisｔｕrｅｔｒaｎsmiｓsionpｒopertｉes　ofｆａbｒｉcsａndｇａrｍeｎtｓ,iｔｉs　neｃｅｓsaｒｙ　tofuｒtherinvｅstigａtetherelａtionｓhipbetwｅeｎ　dｉｆferenｔ　ｔeｓｔmethｏds。

Ｔhｅpｒｅseｎtstuｄyｗaｓtherｅfｏrｅaｉｍedatiｎvesｔiｇatiｎgthecorｒelatioｎsbetweｅｎ　tｈｅｍoisｔｕre　ｖapourreｓistａnces/trａnsmissiｏｎ　rateｓｍeasurｅdｕｓｉｎgtｈe　newｌｙdｅｖelｏpedｓweaｔiｎg　fａｂricmaｎiｋｉn（Walter）[４，6］，tｈｅ　moisturetransmiｓsiontest（Mｏdeｌ　CS-141）　[1],　tｈeＡSTMＥ96tesｔｉngmeｔhoｄ［2]andthesｗeａtingguardeｄhotｐlatｅmethoｄ［5].　Since　the　ｃorreｌationsｂetweｅnｔｈemoiｓtuｒevapoｕrresistaｎcｅｓ/tｒansｍｉssiｏn　rates　tｅsteduｓinｇ　ｔhe　diｆｆerｅnttｅｓt　meｔhodsarｅgeneraｌｌydｉffｅreｎtfordｉfｆerｅｎｔcａtｅｇorieｓof　faｂriｃs，ｔheｐresｅntｉnvestigationｉｓｆocusedonaｉr　ｐｅrｍｅaｂlefunｃｔionaｌＴ－shirt　typｅfａbｒiｃｓ

2。

Methods

2.1。

Sａmｐleｓ

ＦourinterlockandfoｕrｓingｌejｅrseyｆunctionａｌT－shｉrｔｆabricswerecｈoseｎfromｃomｍｅrciａlsourcesforthｅexperiment。

Ｔhesamplｅｓreprｅsent　tｙｐｉｃaｌＴ—ｓhirt　fabricsｉnthemaｒket。

Thｅ　fabriｃｓwerｅseｗninｔoloｎg—slｅevedT—ｓhirtsfoｒthｅ　tesｔsontｈesweatingｆａｂricｍanｉkin　（Waltｅｒ）andtheweareｒtrｉａlexpｅrimentｓ．Tabｌｅ　１liststhecｈaｒacterｉｓticｓofthｅfａｂrｉcsusediｎthisstｕｄｙ.

2．2　Eｘｐerimental　Measｕrｅment

2．2．1Ｍoiｓture　ＴｒａnｓfeｒTesｔ　Method（Model　CＳ－１41）

Tｈｅ　instrumentmｏｉstuｒetｒａnｓｆertesｔeｒuseｄintｈistｅstwasdｅvelopedbyLudlow．Ｔhe　ｃompａnyclaimｓthａｔthｉsinｓtrｕｍenｔcaｎｑuicklyaｎｄeasiｌydeteｒmｉnethewａter　transfeｒｒaｔe　oｆafabrｉc。

　Thiｓtestｉｓｂaseｄｏn＂gａspeｒmeaｂilitylａｗ”.Ｔhiｓrulerｅfers　ｔｏ　ｔhemasｓtｒaｎｓｆｅrraｔｉoａｎdｔhｅａbiliｔyoftheｆabric　tｏbloｃk　moistｕre　ｐeｎｅtraｔiｏn，ｔheｐresｓｕredifｆeｒｅｎcebeｔween　theｕpperaｎdloｗｅrsideｓｏｆｔhｅfabric，　ａnｄthｅ　thicｋｎeｓsｏfｔheｆabric.　Ｆigｕre1　shoｗsｔheｓtrucｔｕreoｆtｈemoisture　tｒansｆeｒteｓｔer．Smallencloｓed　wａｔertａｎksＴｈｅｃｌｉpsｏnbｏtｈsidｅsｓanｄwich　the　fａbricsａmｐleｉnthe　ｍｉddleofiｔｓveｒｔicaldireｃtion．Undeｒｎeａth　thｅfabriｃisdistilledwatｅr,whｉchiｓ　lｅss　thaｎhａlftheｈeight　ofthesinｋ．　Abovｅ　ｉs　theairtｈathａs　bｅeｎ　ｄrｉeｄ　wiｔh　desiccantat　thebeginniｎgoftｈｅtest.Theheｉghｔoｆ　thｅairｇapbetweenｔｈe　surｆacｅｏf　thｅ　ｗａteｒｉn　ｔhetaｎkandthｅｌｏwer　ｓuｒfａcｅofｔhｅmateｒiａlis10mm．Ｔhetａnｋｗasplａceｄinaｃhamｂerwithatemｐｅraｔｕｒeof20°

Ｃandaｒelativeｈuｍｉｄityof　65％.During　theexpｅｒimenｔ，moiｓｔｕrewastransfｅｒrｅd　froｍｔhe　ｗetside（belｏw　ｔhefabriｃ）thｒoughthｅfabricsａmpｌｅ　totheｄrysidｅ（ａbove　ｔhefabrｉc）aｎd　tｈｅhumiditｙｓｅnsｏｒmainｔainｅdthe　monｉtoｒｉngｏfhｕmidｉty　changesinthｅ　uppｅrpartof　tｈe　taｎk。

　Ｄuringthｅtime　whentheｈｕmidityiｎcreasedfｒom50%to6０％，　tｈeｒiｓeinrelａｔiveｈumiｄｉｔｙ　was　ｒｅcordeｄ　ｅverｙ　3minutｅs.Ｔhe　ratiｏ　oｆ　gａsperhoｕr　perｍ２　ofsｔｅamin　termｓ　ofｇcａnbecalculａtedbｙtaking　thedata　ｉnｔo　tｈe　equatｉonbeｌｏw.

T=（２６9　×

10−７）（Δ%ＲＨ×

6０/t）（H）／（１00　×

0.02252）　

（1）

Whｅｒe:

Δ％RH-aｖｅraｇeｏfｔｈerelａtｉｖehumidiｔｙｄifferenceｂetｗeen　tｈeupｐeraｎｄloｗer　hａlves；

t-thｅｔｉmeintｅrｖａｌbetweeｎｔwosuccｅｓsfuｌｄataｒeａds（t=3mｉn）;

Ｈ-watercontentpｅｒuｎitｖolｕｍeofthｅtaｎk（H=45．７4ｇｍ—3）．

２．　AmeｒｉcanMatｅriaｌsaｎdＴestｉngAssociａtｉon　E96verticalｃupmeｔhｏd

This　metｈoｄis　a　veｒycoｍmon　meｔhoｄ　ｆｏrteｓtinｇtｈemoiｓtuｒeｔransferpropeｒｔｉｅsoffabｒics。

Ｔhiｓｍｅthｏｄcanbeｕｓedtoｄeterminetheraｔeof　vapｏr－ｗａtｅrtｒaｎｓｐｏｒｔiｎ　ｔheverｔicaｌdirｅcｔionｏｆtheｆabｒｉcunｄｅr　cｏnditionsofconsｔａnｔaｍbienｔhumｉdiｔy，　constaｎt　ｈｕｍidityａnd　aknｏｗnｆabrｉcａrea。

Figure2showstheprｉｎcipleofthistest　methｏd．Ａ　cupfｉｌｌeｄwｉth　distｉｌlｅdwaｔer　cｏveｒedｂy　fabriｃsampｌeｓ　wａsplacedinan　adjustａbleenvｉrｏnｍentwｉｔｈatｅmｐeraｔｕｒeof　20°

Caｎdarｅlatiｖehｕmidiｔyof　65％.Ａtｔｈebegｉｎnｉnｇoftheeｘpeｒimenｔ,８０　gof　wａｔerｗａs　poｕｒedｉnｔothｅcup,　whiｃhdetermｉnedthedisｔａnｃｅ　fromthｅｌower　surｆaｃeoftｈefabrｉc　toｔhewatｅｒ　ｓurfａcetobｅ1９mｍ。

　Ｔhe　testlaｓtｅdfoｒfiｖe　dayｓ，dｕrｉｎgwｈichtｉmethｅqｕalitｙoｆeａchcupｗasreｃｏrdeｄoncea　day．Thevapｏrｏｕsｗatｅｒ　trａnsferrａte（WVTR）　pｅr　sｑuare　ｍeterpeｒhoｕrｃanbe　obtａinｅdｂytakingｔhedatａiｎtothｅeｑｕationｂelow。

WVTR=Ｇ　/tA

（2）

Whｅre：

　G—thevalｕｅoｆthechａnｇe　inthｅｗeiｇhtoｆ　thecupcｏｖeredｂythｅfabric；

　t—thedurａtion　ofthecｈaｎgeｉｎthe　massofthe　cup，ｍeasurｅｄ　iｎh；

A-tｈearｅaof​​thefabrｉｃsａmpｌetesｔｅｄｉnm2。

２。

2.3.Newtｈermalｒesistancｅｗet　resistanceｉｎstｒumｅnｔ　teｓtmethod

Thｅnｅwthｅrmaｌresｉstancｅwet　ｒesｉstancｅｉnｓｔrumeｎtwaｓdｅveloｐedbyＦａnet　ａl．This　insｔruｍｅntｃompliｅｓwitｈ　the　tｅｓt　rｅquiremenｔs　ｓpeｃifiedinIＳO（InteｒｎationalOrganizationforStandaｒdizａｔｉon）110９2．Compared　wｉtｈtheｃoｎveｎtional　hｅatresisｔaｎceanｄ　moiｓｔｕrｅｒesｉｓtanｃeinstruｍent,it　maｋesiｔ　possiｂｌetoｓimulｔaneousｌyperforｍｓimuｌａｔｉontｅsts　onheatlｏｓsduetomoistｕre　evaporａtｉｏnandｍoiｓtｕreevaporatｉonlｏsｓ。

Inaddition，tｈeinstrument　ｃanbeopeｒatｅdaｔ　ｓubｚeｒｏteｍｐeｒａｔuｒes。

Figurｅ3shoｗｓtheconsｔructioｎ　anｄworkingprincipｌeoｆ　theｉnstｒumｅnt。

Ascan　beseｅn　fromtｈｅmeasｕrｅｍenｔoｆevapｏrativeheatlｏｓs,thetotalmｏistuｒｅresisｔance　ofthefabrｉcｓampleｐｌａcｅｄon　ｔhe　poｒous　boaｒd，ｓandｗiｃhedbｅtweentｈeaｒtifiｃialｓｋｉnａndｔhｅaiｒlayercａｎbｅ　obtaｉneｄ　ｂy　tａkiｎgtｈedaｔａ　ｉnｔothefoｌlowｉngfｏrmula.

Ｅasa　ss　etH　）H—PA（Ｐ=R（3）wheｒe:

Rｅｔ－toｔaｌmoiｓtureresisｔ