Protection and Transmission of the FireweedRamie Weaving Technique of the Taliu People of the Yi inWord文档下载推荐.docx
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Protection and Transmission of the FireweedRamie Weaving Technique of the Taliu People of the Yi inWord文档下载推荐.docx
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LiudeYiandLisuTownshipislocatedinthesoutheasternpartofYongshengcountyofLijiangcity.Itisaround30kilometersawayfromthecountyseat.Thetownshipoversees8villagecommitteesand71smallvillagegroups;
anditcoversanareaof330.8squarekilometers.Inearly2014,thetotalpopulationofthistownshipwas14,246people,amongwhich6,635areLisu,whichis47%ofthepopulation;
4,648areTaliupeopleofYi,whichis32%ofthepopulation;
and3,214areHanandotherethnicminorities,whichis21%ofthepopulation.NintypercentoftheTaliuhavethesurnamesChen,Wang,Lan,andHai.?
ClotheswovenfromfireweedandramieareahandicraftpasseddownforgenerationsbytheTaliuYiinYongshengCounty.Duetothelackofrelevanthistoricalrecords,itisnotpossibleforustodatewhentheTaliubeganweavingclothfromfireweed-ramie.Inafolksongcalledthe?
“Taliudadiao”?
orthe“GreatMelodyoftheTaliu”,whichispopularintheTaliumountainousarea,itsaysthat“thebabyiswaitingtobeseparatedfromthebodyofthemother,thetwineusedfortheumbilicalcordiscollectedfromtheforest…whatwillbeusedtowrapupthebaby?
Isitpossibletousethehempclothesoftheparents?
Thehempclothesarepreparedfromtheflowersbytheparents;
thehampclothesaremadeofthehempproducedbythemother;
thehempclothesarewovenfromthefireweedcollectedbythefather;
thebeautifulhempclothesarefilledwiththelovefromtheparents.”Inaddition,intheclusterofTaliuancienttombstoneslocatedinthethreeadministrativevillagesofYinshan,YushuiandShanhe,thereare6,300gravesoftheYuclanoftheTaliupeopledatingfromtheWanliperiodoftheMingdynastytotheearlyyearsoftheRepublicanera.Manyfireweedpatternsarecarvedonthesetombstones.Fromthis,wecannotethatfireweedisnotonlycloselyrelatedtothedailylifeoftheTaliu,butthataweavingtechniqueusingfireweedmustalsohaveaveryancienthistory.?
ThetraditionalcostumeofTaliupeoplediffersstylisticallyaccordingtoagedifferencesamongthesedifferences,thosedifferencesinfemalecostumearequiteobvious.ThetraditionalmalecostumeoftheTaliucanbedividedinto“shortattire”,ritualcostumeandfuneralcostume.Thefemalecostumesaremainlydividedintochildren?
sclothes,younggirl?
sclothes,youngwomen?
sclothesandadultclothes.?
II.AnIntangibleCulturalHeritage―TaliuPeople?
sFireweed-RamieWeavingTechnique?
Accordingtoliteraryrecords,amongtheethnicminoritiesinsouthwesternChina,thereisatraditionofusingtheleavesofwildplantsasamaterialforweaving.ThisincludestheNaxi,Zhuang,Miao,Lisu,Nu,etc.Theclothmadefromfireweed-ramienotonlyhasthequalityofwarmthprovidedbythefireweed,butitalsoispliableandtough,aqualityprovidedbytheramie.Hence,theTaliuhaveatraditionofmakingclothesusingfireweedandramie.?
InthelonghistoryofproductionandlivingcustomsamongtheChinesepeople,theweavingtechniquesofthepeopleintheancienttimewentthroughthreestages:
thefirstistheprimitivehandwovenstage.Peoplecollectedmaterialsfromtheirsurroundingareas;
theycollectedPuerarialobota,fibre,wildsilk,thefeatherofbirdsandanimalstoweave;
thesecondstageistheuseofhanddrivenmachinestoweavecloth.Inthisstage,theweavingtoolsgraduallychangedintoakindofhanddrivenmechanizedsystemwithspindles,spinningreels,andspinningwheels;
thethirdstageiswhentheweavingprocessdevelopingintooneusingmachines.Duringthistime,manyformsofhandcraftedmachinesappeared,forinstances,thereelwheelandspinningwheeldevelopedfrombeinghand-operatedstyletofoot-operatedstyle,andthesystemofusingsinglespindlesdevelopedtousingdoubleormultispindles.Inthisway,productionefficiencywasimproved.TheTaliupeople?
sfireweed-ramiewevingtechniqueincludesthirteendifferentprocedures,forexample,peelingtheramie,scrapingtheramie,washingtheramie,makingramiethreads,boilingtheramiethreads,weaving,etc.Twineprocessingisverycomplicated.Traditionallyitwassaidthat“thereare74proceduresforprocessingtwine”.However,processingfireweedisrelativelysimple.?
III.ChallengesfortheProtectionandTransmissionoftheTaliuPeople?
sFireweed-RamieWeavingTechnique?
IntheTaliuvillagesofYongsheng,therearenospecialteacherswhoteachthefireweed-ramieweavingtechnique;
mostpeoplelearnthistechniquethroughtransmissionwithinthefamily.TheTaliubelievethatweavingisnotonlyatechniqueforproductionanddailyliving,butitisalsoanimportantcriterionforevaluatingwhetherornotagirlisvirtuous.Becausetheclothesmadefromfireweed-ramiearecloselyrelatedwiththeritualsoflifeanddailylifeoftheTaliu,thefireweed-ramieweavingtechniquehasbeenpreserveduptothepresenttime.?
Thefireweed-ramieweavingtechniqueoftheTaliupeopletakesfireweedandramieastherawmaterial,anditiscompletelyatraditionalhandwoventechnique.Theclothes,nomatterformaleorwomen,useblackandwhiteasitsmaincolors,mixedwithsomeothercolors.Theclotheshaveastrongornamentalvalueaswellasaresearchvalue.Hence,TaliucostumeshavebeencollectedbythemuseumsofCentralNationalitiyUniversityofChina,ofYunnanUniversity,andeventheBritishMuseum,theRussianStateMuseum,etc.ThecostumeoftheTaliuisgraduallyworkingitswayoutoftheisolatedmountainvillages,andisbecomingknownandacceptedbymoreandmoretouristsandresearchersbothhomeandabroad.Atthesametime,withthepromotionandeffortofthelocalculturalelitesandlocalgovernment,in2009,thefireweed-ramieweavingtechniqueoftheTaliuwasinscribedinthesecondgroupoftheYunnanProvincialIntangibleCulturalHeritageProtectionList.Thisestablishedagoodplatformfortheprotectionandtransmissionofthisweavingtechnique.Atpresent,manyhouseholdsinTaliuvillage,includingShuangheandYinshan,havepreservedthewooden-frameloomswhicharearound1.8metershighand2.0meterswidth.IfwestepintothecourtyardsoftheTaliuduringthesixthandseventhlunarmonths,wecanstillseeTaliuwomenspinningandweavinghereandthere.
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However,followingtheimprovementofthelivingconditionsoftheTaliu,andchangesinthenaturalenvironment,boththetraditionalwayofproductionandvaluesoftheTaliuhavechanged.ThishasbroughtaseriouschallengetothecontinuationoftheTaliupeople?
sfireweed-ramieweavingtechniques.Themaincausesare:
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1)thereductionofrawmaterial.Ononehand,becauseofseriousdeforestation,thegradualdestructionofthenaturalvegetationandserioussoilerosioninTaliuarea,thenaturalecologyonwhichtheTaliupeople?
straditionalweavingcraftdepends,isgraduallyworsening.Asaresult,theproductionoffireweedisgraduallybeingreduced.Hence,itisnoteasytogetenoughrawmaterialforthetraditionalwovenneeds.Ontheotherhand,duetolowproduction,theTaliualsoreducedtheirplantingoframie.Hence,itispossiblethattheTaliu?
sfireweed-ramieweavingtechniquewillgraduallybelost.
2)therelativelycomplicatedproductionprocess.Taliutraditionalweavingprimarilydependsonaself-sufficientfamilyeconomicunit.Ingeneral,theclothisnotusedformarketexchange.Inotherwords,ithasnotyetbecomepartofindustrialproduction.Asanintangibleculturalheritagetechnique,theproductionprocessisverycomplicated.Moreover,thecostofproductionisveryhigh,anditisverytimeconsuming.Whennewkindsofproductionforarticlesofdailyuse,whichusesyntheticfabrics,enteredthecommonpeople?
shomes,traditionalweavingisgraduallyreplacedbylessexpensivetextileswhicharemassproduced.This,toacertaindegree,haslimitedthetransmissionoftheTaliupeople?
sfireweed-ramieweavingtechniques. ?
3)thechangesinvalues.FollowingthegradualimprovementoftheTaliu?
slivingconditions;
thefrequentcommunicationwithotherethnicpeoples;
andtheinfluenceofthemodernlifestyle,thevaluesandaestheticidealsoftheyoungergenerationoftheTaliualsochanged.Exceptduringethnicfestivals,weddingsandfunerals,notmanyyoungTaliuweartheirtraditionalethniccostumeindailylife,andtheydonotwanttospendtimeleaningtraditionalweaving.ThishasgreatlyimpactedthetransmissionoftheTaliupeople?
sfireweed-ramieweavingtechnique.?
4)theappearanceofa“break”inthelineoftransmission.Accordingtostatistics,duringtherecent20years,manyyoungTaliuhavelefttheirvill
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