服装设计外文翻译文献服装设计专业文献翻译Word文件下载.docx
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服装设计外文翻译文献服装设计专业文献翻译Word文件下载.docx
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文献出处:
《NordicTextileJournal》,2012,1:
60-69.
字数统计:
英文3104单词,17881字符;
中文5737汉字
外文文献:
ProactiveFashionDesignforSustainableConsumption
AbstractThisarticlepresentsastudythatinvestigatesproductsatisfactioninthecontextofclothing.Thepaperfurthermorepresentssuggestionsonhowthisknowledgecanbeusedtocreateproactivefashiondesignforsustainableconsumption.Oneofthemainchallengesintoday’sconsumersocietyishowtodesignproductsthatencourageconsumerstoengageinmoreenvironmentallyresponsiblebehaviour,sustainableconsumption.Thispaperopensthediscussiononhowtochangecurrentunsustainableconsumptionbehaviourrelatedtoclothingthroughavisionary,far-sighteddesignapproach.Designerscancreatefuture-orientedsustainabledesignsthatcantransformconsumptionpatternstowardsmoresustainableones.Designforsustainabilitycanthusbearedirectivepracticethataimsforsustainableconsumption,andthewaysinwhichfashiondesigncanbeaproactiveprocesswiththisaimwillbedescribed.
Keywords:
proactivedesign,sustainabledesign,sustainableconsumption,emotionalsatisfaction,PSS.
Introduction
Productsconfigureconsumerneedsandusepatterns;
hence,designcanbesaidtobe“practice-oriented”,creatingcertaineverydaypracticesandconsumptionbehaviour(Shoveetal.2007,134–136).Currentindustrialdesignandmass-manufacturingsystemsstimulateconsumerismandtheproductionofdisposableproducts(Walker2007,51).Fastchangingtrendsleadtoconsumers’unsustainableconsumptionbehaviour.Tocreateanew,sustainablebalancebetweendesign,manufacturingandconsumption,alternativewaystocreateproductsarerequiredtodrivemoresustainableconsumptionbehaviour.Therefore,designersshouldevaluatehoweachdesigndecisionaffectsaconsumer’sconsumptionpatterns.Understoodinthisway,sustainabledesigncanbearedirectiveoraproactivepracticethataimsforsustainablepracticesinconsumption(Fry2009,53).
Higherproductionvolumesandsimultaneousgrowingconsumptionhavecausedanincreaseinmaterialconsumption(Throne-Holstetal.2007).Ever-changingfashiontrends,affordableproductpricesandlow-qualityproductscauseconsumerstoengageinunsustainableconsumptionbehaviour,suchasimpulsepurchases,overconsumption,shortusetimeandprematuredisposalofproducts.Theincreaseinthepurchaseofshort-lifespanproductsresultsinanotableincreaseinwaste.Currently,approximately70percentofdisposedclothingandtextilesendupinlandfills,andinmanyWesterncountriesclothingandtextilewasteisestimatedtobethefastestgrowingwastestream(Fletcher2008,98).Consumersdiscardgamentsnotonlybecausetheyarewornoutbutalsobecausetheyactivelyseeknovelty.Nevertheless,productdurabilityandlongtermuseareprerequisitesforsustainableconsumption:
i.e.extendingthelifespanofproductsisessentialwhenthegoalissustainableconsumption(Cooper2005).Importantly,however,consumersassociatedurabilitywithhighqualityandnotwithenvironmentalimpact.
Emotionslieatthecentreofhumanlife,andtheyinfluencemostofourbehaviours,motivationsandthoughtprocesses(Desmet2009,379).Emotionsalsoplayastrongroleinconsumption.Theinterplaybetweenwants,needs,values,attitudesandexperiencesisemotionallymeaningfulforacontemporaryconsumer.Clothingandfashionitemsbelongtothecategoryofself-expressiveproducts,andwithsuchproducts,consumption-relatedemotionsareimportanttotheconsumer.AsRichins(2009)argued,theseconsumptionemotionsareimportantelementsincontemporarysocietyandespeciallyafterthepurchaseevent.Thepurchasesituationbecomesastrongpositiveexperienceforaconsumer,butitisveryshortterminnatureandhasnoconnectiontotheexperienceofdeepersatisfactionorperson–productattachment(ibid).Throughanewpurchaseevent,theconsumercanagainexperienceexcitement,enjoyment,joyandpleasure,atleastmomentarily.
Fromanenvironmentalpointofview,studyingconsumptionpatternsandthemeaningsofconsumptionisimportantwhensustainedpositiveemotionsinperson–productrelationshipsaredesiredorsolutionsaresoughttoreplacematerialisticconsumptionwithotherpositiveemotionalstates.Thedesignprocessshouldfocusonsustainableconsumersatisfactionwithaproductorwiththeperson–productattachmentprocess.Moreover,anewkindofproductservicesystem(PSS)shouldbedevelopedthataimstoprolongtheenjoyableusetimeoftheproduct.APSSstrategycanalsooffertheconsumernewemotionalexperiences,whichcanpostponethedisposaloftheproduct;
PSSthinkingcantherebyaimtoavoidanewgarmentpurchase,whichisanopportunitytodecreasematerialisticconsumption.
SustainableSatisfactionwithClothing
Ifcurrentunsustainableconsumptionpatternsaretobetransformedintomoresustainableones,thewaysinwhichdesigncanoffersustainablesatisfactionmustbeinvestigated.Togainadeeperunderstandingoftheopportunitiestodeliversatisfactionbydesignandhowtheenjoyableuseofgarmentscanbeextended,thesatisfactionprocessmustfirstbeexplained.
AccordingtoSwanandCombs(1976),theperformanceofclothingcanbeseparatedintoinstrumentalperformance(physicalproperties)andexpressiveperformance.Expressiveperformanceislinkedtoaconsumer’spsychologicalresponsetothegarment,suchastheexperienceofbeauty.Instrumentalrequirements(e.g.qualityexpectations)mustbesatisfiedfirst.Nevertheless,onlyfulfillinginstrumentalrequirementswillnotresultinsatisfaction.Thereforeclothingmustalsomeetconsumers’emotionalneedsifitistodeliversatisfaction(SwanandCombs1976).
Hencegoodintrinsicqualityisoptimalforensuringconsumersatisfactionandtoguaranteethelongevityofclothing.Highqualitymeansdurablematerialsandhighmanufacturingquality.Theageingprocessofapleasant,aestheticgarmentrequiresnotonlymaintaininghighintrinsicqualitybutalsothedesignofamoreclassicalstyleanduseofdurablematerials.Sometextilematerialslookoldafterashortusetime.Thematerialmightexperiencepillingormaylookoldafterafewwashes.Garmentsneedingfrequentwashingmaylookoldratherquickly;
therefore,recognisingmaterialsthatageinamoreaestheticallypleasingmannerisimportant.Studieshaveshown(Niinimä
ki2010)thatconsumersexperiencee.g.woolandrealleathertoageinanaestheticallypleasantway.Consumersreportthatwithhighqualitywooltheageingprocessdoesnotshowasobviouslyandinleathertheageingprocessisexperiencedasanattractivetemporaldimension(ibid.).
Consumersrespectaestheticattributesinthelong-termuseofclothing,andaestheticattributescorrespondtoexpressiveperformanceinclothingsatisfaction.Accordingly,expressiveperformanceaffectsthepsychologicalresponsetoclothing.Theaestheticattributesthatcorrelatetothelongevityofclothingaregoodfit,personalcut,nicecoloursandcomfortablematerials,aswellasaclassiclook(seeTable1).Garmenttactilityisimportanttothewearerandapleasanttactileexperienceduringtheusesituationisoneattributeforenjoyablelong-termuseofclothing.
TableI:
Attributesthatenablelongevityinclothing
Theattributesthatenablelongevityinclothingarethefollowing:
Quality:
Durablematerials
Durabilityinuse
Durabilityinlaundering
Highmanufacturingquality
Functionality:
Easymaintenance
Suitabilityintheusesituation(physiologicalandpsychologicalsuitability)
Satisfyinguseexperience
Aestheticattributes:
Beauty,style,colour,fit
Expressivebeautyaboveaverage
Tactileexperience
Comfortablematerials
Values:
Product’svalueshavetomeetconsumer’spersonalvalues
Notonlyquality,functionalityandaestheticsareimportantattributes;
thevaluesbehindtheproductarealsoimportanttoconsumersatisfaction.Clothingchoicesmustconnectstronglywiththewearer’sself-image,identityandvalues.WangandWallendorf(2006)havearguedthatconsumerswithhighmaterialisticvaluesseeknoveltyandevaluatetheirpossessionsmoreoftenthanconsumerswithlowermaterialisticvalues.Theyalsohighlightthatmaterialisticconsumershavelessappreciationfordeeperperson–productrelationshipsthatdevelopduringlongerusesituations.Consumers’materialisticvaluesmayalsoconnectwithsocialstatus-relatedelementsingarmentsandpossessions.Consumerswithlowermaterialisticvaluesmayhavegreaterappreciationforthepersonalmeaningsattributabletotheproductthatemergeduringlong-termuse(Wang&
Wallendorf2006).Consumerswithhighenvironmentalandethicalinterestsplacehighimportanceonbeingabletofindenvironmentalvaluebehindaproduct.Theseconsumersrespectcredencequalityattributes–localandethicalproduction,eco-materialsandlonggarmentlifespans–andtheywanttoseetheseattributesandenvironmentalvaluesintheproductstheypurchase.Thevalueaspectismostimportantandconsumers’valueexpectationsshouldbefulfilledtocreatedeepproductsatisfaction(Niinimä
ki2011).
FashionDesignforSustainableSatisfaction
Howcanadesigneroffersustainablesatisfactiontotheconsumerandhowcans/heproposeaprolongedusetimeoftheproducttotheconsumer?
Firstlyidentifyingtheattributesassociatedwithsatisfactionandincludingtheminthedesignisthemostimportantstrategy.Secondlyidentifyingthedeterminantsthatleadtodissatisfactionhelpsthedesignertoavoidtheseelementsindesignandconcentrateondesignforsu
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