服装基本制造流程Word格式文档下载.docx
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服装基本制造流程Word格式文档下载.docx
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thespecificfeaturedesignedinthegarmentwillrequirespecialmethods,equipment,andattachmenttobeusedtosatisfytherequirement.
c.Determinethesuitabilityofthepresentequipmentandmachinery,whichwillinfluencethemethodtobeusedtomakeupthegarment.
d.Compilethecustomer’srequirement,qualityrequirementandtolerance.
A.Generalmanufacturingworkflowforgarments:
DesignPatternmarkingSamplemaking
SpreadingMarkermakingPatternGrading
CuttingFusingBundlingSewing
FinishedGarmentFinishing
B.Generalmanufacturingprocessesforgarments:
1)Design
Thefirststepinproducingagarmentisthecreationofthedesignandtheconstructionofpatternsforthecomponentsinthedesign.Agoodappareldesignhasthreeparameters:
-emotionalappeal(style),utility,anddurability.Theapparelmanufacturermeasuresstyleobjectivelywitharelativescale–theprofitablescaleoftheproduct.
2)Patternmaking
Thedesignercreatesspecificproductsinaccordancewiththetrends.ThePatternmakerdraftsthepatternnecessarytoproducethecreation.Apparelpatternaremadewithoneoftwobasicmethods:
-
a.Drapingthegarmentonaformormodelwithmuslinorthefabricsusedtomakethegarment.Theproductionpatternistracedfromthemuslinorfabriccuts.(TailorMade)
b.Draftingthepatternonpaperwitheitherdirectmeasurementsforthepatternordevelopingthepatterndraftwiththeaidofasloper(basicblock).
3)
Samplemaking
Inthegarmentindustry,itistraditionaltoindicatetherequirementbymeansofasamplegarment.Thesamplemaybemockup(quicklymake)ofthedesignersorpurchasersbasicideaorrequirementoritmayshowtherequirementindetail.
Thesampleisnecessarytoillustratethoseaspectsofdesignandmanufacturewhichitisnotpossible(ofpractical)todescribeindetailinwordse.g.shapesofcollars,pockets,flaps,etc.Ingeneral,itispossibletoillustratemanyofthefeaturesbymeansofdrawingsorphotographs,butpeopleengagedingarmentproductionwouldusuallyfindengineeringtypedrawingsdifficulttounderstandwithoutspecialtraining.Hence,theuseofsamplescanensurethemanufacturertounderstandthetypesofgarmentrequestedbycustomerandthecorrectproductionmethodsusedforthefurtherbulkproduction.
a)Typesofsamples:
Basically,thereareFourtypesofsamples:
1.Initiallysample
2.Approvalsample
3.Salesmansample/Sizesetsample
4.Shipmentsample
I)
Initiallysamples
Preparation:
a)Material:
shouldbethesamematerialasrequestedbycustomersorascloseaspossibleifunavailable.
b)Colour:
trytomatchtherequirementifpossible.
c)Accessories:
Usetheexactrequestedaccessoriesorascloseaspossible.
Inspection:
a)Dimension:
measurementshouldbekeptastheproductionsheetifindicated.
b)Silhouette:
accordingtothedesignillustration.
c)Designdetail:
shouldfollowthesketchexactly.
d)Fitting:
takecareoftheeffectofcuttingwhetheritisinproportiontothehumanfigureandthedraftingeffectetc.
II)Approvalsamples
shouldusethesamematerialasrequestedbycustomers.
matchtherequirement.
usetheexactrequestedaccessories.
measurementshouldbekeptastheproductionsheetaswellasthemeasurementchart.
mustbekeptaccordingtothedesignillustration.
shouldfollowexactlytheproductiondesignsheet.
e)Sewingfaults:
-stitchformation;
-stitchtension;
-seamslippage;
-seampuckering;
-needleheatandsoon.
II)
Salesmansample(sizeset)
mustusethesamematerialwithoutanyalternation.
b)Colour:
Anycolourselectedfromcustomersintheordersheet.
c)Accessories:
mustusetheexactrequestedaccessories.
measurementshouldbekeptastheproductionsheet(sizespecification).
b)Silhouette:
c)Designdetail:
Takecareoftheeffectofcuttingwhetherthepatterncouldmakeaccordinglyanditisinproportiontothehumanfigureanditsdraftingeffect.
e)Sewingfaults
IV)Shipmentsample(Productionsample)
Everythingmustbeconformedtothecustomer’srequirements.
4)
Patterngrading
Itisthedraftingprocessofenlargingordiminishingastylepatternintopatternsforothersizes.Thefunctionofgradingistoseethatthisisaccomplishedwithproperfitfortheothersizewithoutchangingthestylesenseoftheoriginalmodel.
5)Markermaking
Beforethecuttercanbeginhiscuttingoperation,hehastohavesomeplanofoperations.Markingthefabricitself,initssimplestform,wasoriginallymarkinginroundapatterntheshapetocutbymeansofcrayon,chalkorothermakingimplement.Thefirststepincalculatingtheoptimummarkerdesignisdeterminingthebasicgeometricdesignofthemarker.Thisisdonebyinspectingthegrainmarkingsonthepatterns.Thesecondstepistolistornotethelengthofthewarpandfillingdimensionineachpattern.Sincemostpatternsarenotrectangular,thismeansthattwoormoremeasurementsmustbetakenforeachdimension.Thethirdstepdiffersslightlywithrespecttothebasicdesigntype.Thepatternsthatwidthsaremarkedinparallelformationacrosstothewidth.Inpatternswithtaperedwidths,maximuminterlockefficiencyresultsbyinvertingthealternatepatternsinamanner,whichinterlocksanarrowwidthwithawidewidth.Themarkermakesnotestheuprightandinvertedcorrelation’srequiredequallingthefullwidthofthefabric.Theapplicationofpatternengineeringistheshiftingofseamstomakethebestuseofclothwidth.Inonecase,threetrouserbackscouldbelaidin43”andfourtrouserfrontsin47”.Theclothwidthavailablewas45”andbyshiftingthesideseamadding1/2”tothebacksandtaking1/2”fromthefronts,itwaspossibletolaythreebacksandfourfrontinexactly45”.
6)Spreading
Theclothisbroughttothecuttingtabletobelaid,plyonply,orinsingleplies.Theclothmaybespreadonthetablemanually,orbymachine.Theprocedureofclothspreadingistheplacingofthematerialonthecuttingtable,layingonepieceuponanother,toapredeterminedlength.Ingivingconsiderationtotheuseofmachinery,volumeisusuallythedecidingfactor,althoughqualityandhandlingmaybefactorsaswell.Spreadingismadeeasierbytheuseofspreadingmachines.Goodspreadingshouldresultinalay,inwhicheachplyliesperfectlyflat,withouttension.
7)Cutting
Afterspreading,themarking-inmustbecarriedout,sothatthecutterwillknowwhatshapesandinwhatmannerheistocutupthelay.Marking-inmaybedonebymarkingdirectlyontothecloth,usingperforatedmarkersorbyusingpapermarkers.Aftermarking-inthecuttingoperationiscarriedout.Thismaybebymeansofaportablecuttingmachinetodotheentireoperation,ordissectingthelayintosectionswithacuttingmachine,andthencuttingitonaband-knife.Forsomeapplicationsitispossibletocuttheentirelaybyusingadie-pressmachine.Afterthevariouspartshavebeencut,thecutpartsarepassedintothesewingroom.Variouspiecesofequipmentareusedduringtheprocedureofspreading,markingandcutting.
8)Fusing
Itisamethodofjoiningfabricpartsusingtechniquessimilartopressing.Justaspressingusesheat,pressureandmoisturetoobtainitseffect,sofusingusesheat,pressureandsometimesmoisture,butduringameasuredtimespan,toobtaintoitseffect.Theaimoffusingistobondinterliningtoouterfabricinsuchareasascollar,cuffs,facings,lapels,edges,pocketsandforeparts.Theactiveagentinfusingistheresin,whichcoatstheinterlining.Wheninterliningandouterclotharepressedtogetherunderheattheadhesiveresinmeltsandflowsintotheoutercloth.Whenthepressureisreleased,thefusedpartscool,theresinsolidifiesandthebondingiscomplete.Thefactorstoconsiderarethetypeofcoatingthetypeofresin,methodsoftestingthebond,theprocessitself,andequipmentforfusing.
9)Bundling
Anumberofgarmentstieduptogetherforcarryinginsomeproductionsystemofclothingindustries.Themanneroffoldingorsuperposingthepliesinthebundlesshouldbesuchthat
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